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'Evening in Paris' Vanity Case by Bourjois, c1940


Description

We love this elegant Bourjois vanity case for its slim, sleek design, and its highly desirable condition! The term 'vanity case' tends to be applied to items which contain not only face powder, but also rouge and lipstick - larger versions often had additional space for cigarettes, money, a comb, etc. This particular vanity case combines the elements for which Bourjois is best known - its cosmetics, and its fragrance 'Evening in Paris'.

The company was founded in Paris during the 1860s, and became well established as a supplier of cosmetics for the stage. Its owner, Alexander-Napoleon Bourjois, developed new ranges of face powders and rouges, whose innovative (dry) formulas proved a welcome change from the greasy textures of the makeup of the period. Bourjois died in 1893, and by 1900, the company (which continued to carry his name) was under the ownership of the Wertheimer family, who still own Bourjois today. By the 1920s, Bourjois had expanded into the American market, and the end of that decade saw the launch of the company's most famous fragrance - 'Evening in Paris' (or 'Soir de Paris'). Created by parfumier Ernest Beaux (who had also created 'Chanel No 5' in 1921), 'Evening in Paris' was a tremendous success, both in Europe and America. The fragrance was loved for its evocation of Parisian style and glamour, and memorable for its striking, cobalt blue bottles with silvertone labels. Those packaging elements are echoed within this vanity case, which is formed from silvertone metal, and features an incised floral lid motif - the latter is emphasized with cobalt blue details. In addition to the floral decoration, the lid is enhanced with two subtle patterns of lines. There is also a blank, polished metal cartouche, so that the owner's initials could be engraved, if desired. The lid has a cut-out section to allow for the slim, silvertone metal lipstick case. The base of the item is decorated with a pattern of closely-set lines, at the centre of which is displayed the Bourjois name, and the words 'NEW YORK DISTRIBUTOR'.

Pressing the catch at the front reveals a gleaming, highly polished interior, neatly laid out with lipstick, powder rouge and a compartment for loose powder. The removable lipstick case still contains an unused lipstick, in a sophisticated, rich red shade. The unused powder rouge is a vibrant pink colour, and, on close examination, the words 'Evening in Paris' can be seen within it - please note that the rouge is more pink toned in reality, than depicted in the photographs. The clear plastic cover for the rouge is still in place, and over the top of this lies an applicator puff. There is a catch at the right side of the powder compartment door - opening this reveals a felt edging (to minimise powder spillage), and an unopened sachet of loose powder. A powder puff rests on the compartment door. Both puffs feature the 'Evening in Paris' name in white lettering, set against a brown fabric background. The refill references for both lipstick and rouge are inscribed into the metal casing. The interior is completed by a mirror on the underside of the lid. The vanity case is accompanied by its grey fabric pochette.

Bourjois advertising dates this vanity case to c1940, and we notice that Bourjois adverts of the early 1940s tended to link the 'Evening in Paris' fragrance with make-up. The adverts extol the virtues of the products in language which, to us, conjures up images of a very different time; we particularly like the following - 'Evening in Paris face powder, rouge and lipstick, in shades to glorify your natural charm, perfumed with the romantic fragrance of Evening in Paris... this is the perfect combination for that fragile dream-loveliness men find irresistible.'



Manufacturer: Bourjois

Country of manufacture: USA

Product ref: C115 - SOLD

Condition

Excellent. This stylish vanity case has survived in highly desirable condition - it appears never to have been used, and has been carefully stored over the years. The exterior metal casing is smooth and gleaming - there are no dents and the only slight scratching we can detect occurs on the base. The floral decoration on the lid is clean and crisp, and the cobalt blue details are undamaged. The interior is in a similarly appealing condition; the mirrored area is clear, and the metal throughout displays a highly polished shine. The lipstick, rouge and powder are all unused - perhaps unsurprisingly, we are no longer aware of a fragrance within the products . The inner lipstick casing (and the lipstick itself) shows some marking, but the intact shape of the lipstick reveals that any dark spots result from age, rather than use. The push-up mechanism no longer raises the lipstick, but in our view, this is a minor fault. Neither the powder puff nor the rouge puff have been used - that for the rouge shows slight pink marking around one edge, where it has rested on a section of the rouge not covered by the plastic slip. The catch for the powder compartment door and the exterior main catch both shut tightly and securely. The pochette reveals a little evidence of its age, but it remains intact, and has obviously protected its contents very successfully over time. We think this smart vanity case is an impressive illustration of 1940s cosmetic styles, and at the same time brings to mind one of the best-loved fragrances of the period. These factors, together with its extremely well-preserved condition, will make it a worthy addition to a collection of fine compacts.    

Material: Silvertone metal

Measurements: w:59mm x h:84mm

Vanity case with pochette   Front of case
Back of case   Interior 1
Interior 2   Interior 3
Detail: lipstick case and rouge with puff   Detail: floral decoration with cobalt blue detail

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